A few years ago, a gas fire has been categorized as a decorative component that will give your living room a focal point. Gas prices are considerably lower than they are now, so manufacturers have focused on creating a gas fire that looks as realistic as possible, leading to a gas fire that looked just like a real carbon fire but extremely costly and inefficient. With heating bills constantly rising, demands have now changed, and homeowners don’t want to spend money on an appliance that loses most of the heat produced by the chimney or on a fire that uses so much gas that they need a draughty air ventilation installed in the room to comply with the current safety legislation.
The previous five years have led to a drastic heating market shift. While the fires being produced still give a realistic living fire, effectiveness has demonstrated to be the number one factor when customers are looking for a fresh gas appliance and most of the designs now being provided boast high effectiveness and are now classified as a heating source that can be used separately of your primary central heating system.
Whatever the flue type your home has, or even if it has no flue at all, a suitable gas fire still exists. With milder winters, many of these models will be enough to heat the room they’re in, which means you don’t have to run the central heating all the time if you spend most of your time in just one room. This will save you considerably on your utility bills, which is an important factor in the current setting.
Class 2 Pre-Cast Flues
A pre-cast flue, usually discovered in households built in the 1980s, is a shallow flue built from concrete blocks inside the walls ‘ cavity. Usually, the concrete blocks change into the steel pipe of the loft and end with a raised ridge tile on the roof. Gas fire options used to be very limited for this kind of flue, but now manufacturers have created a large number of pre-cast flue slimline appliances.
Traditional starting fires sitting on heat instead of being inset are available choices. A closure plate covers the flue opening and a spigot on the back of the fire connects to a cut-out in the closure plate allowing the fumes to enter the flue. Outset gas fires with radiant bars are still categorized as large heat providers and are very common with elderly clients as most of these fires have controls that ate the top and are easy to operate.
Slimline, inset designs give a’ living flame fire’ beauty, but the shallow fuel bed means they fit into a tight, pre-cast flue. Several designs with a complete depth of just 100 mm are accessible to ensure that they fit into all flues. These models are intended to be coupled with a surrounding fireplace and an appropriate back panel & heart. If you’re searching for a fresh fireplace, buy a fire surround with a bigger rebate that will allow the back panel to sit further away from the wall offering you the choice to fit a deeper, more realistic gas fire into a flawless flue.
Class 2 Pre-Fabricated Flues
Again, this kind of flue is linked to structures constructed over the past 30 years. Prefabricated flues are constructed using a 5 “steel pipe usually situated within a built-out stud wall. Gas tanks designed for prefabricated flues have decreased emissions although a deeper fuel bed is easier to accommodate depending on the depth of the wall on which the furnace is mounted.
Class 1 Flues
The gas fires you can have with a Class 1 flue have very little restriction. A Class 1 flue is generally found as a brick-built chimney in older houses. Because of the depth available and the size of the flue inside the fireplace, most gas fires can be fitted. This includes the popular fireplaces that are raised from the floor in the style of’ hole-in-the-wall’ and do not involve a flame protruding into space. Before installing a new gas appliance, it is vital to verify for soundness in a real, brick-built chimney.
Chimneys may deteriorate over time and a certified gas installer will perform a smoke test to ensure that the flue is performing correctly and without leakage. If a leak is detected and can not be rectified, a steel flue liner will have to be fitted. If a 7″ liner is inserted, this will still indicate that the flue is a Class 1. If a smaller 5 “liner is fitted, the flue grade will change to a Class 2 and restrict the sort of gas fire you may have.
Open or Glass-Fronted Gas Fires
To add ambiance to a space, nothing beats a true, open-fire gas fire. While this form of fire is still very common, the effectiveness of a glass-faced gas fire is not offered. The primary reason is because the flue outlet is big to guarantee all the fumes go up the flue to avoid any of the poisonous fumes generated by an open-front gas fire entering the space. With this, the flue also loses a lot of the heat generated (about 40-50 percent). This may not be an important factor if you only occasionally use the fire and prefer the effect of an open flame, but the sales of glass-fronted gas fires have recently increased enormously.
The glass panel protects fumes from entering the space as a result of the fire. This implies that while using less gas, they can stay around the fuel bed longer to achieve more heat. Many boast up to 90 percent net effectiveness while maintaining a realistic flame pattern. People often worry that the glass will get dirty, if this happens, it’s usually the consequence of the flue not performing correctly, rather than a problem with the fire itself. The glass is readily removed and cleaning is usually sufficient on a fire fitted into a correctly functioning flue every year when the fire is being serviced.
Gas Fire Controls
The normal control choice usually at the bottom of the appliance on most gas fires is a manually controlled Piezo. It is hidden behind a removable fret section and consists of a control knob that is switched to the ignition setting while pressing the igniter button to generate a spark. Unless the thermo-couple portion of the ignition understands there is a flame, the safety characteristics on all contemporary fires will not allow gas to continue passing through the fire. If the flame were to go out, and gas would be stopped automatically.
A common control technique now available on a gas fire choice is a high-level slide control. This is a lever on the fire’s top correct side that enables you to switch on / off the fire and regulate the height of the fire without bending down. This sort of control, normally operated by battery, is regarded as the best choice for older users as it is easy to run and reliable.
Remote control on a multitude of gas fires is now prevalent.
A remote handset is used to regulate the height of the flames and also ignites the pilot light on sequential remote controls. Child-proof safety characteristics on the handset usually involve two buttons to be pressed at once and some designs integrate a thermostat feature that allows you to set the handset to a certain temperature and the flame turns down automatically once the space reaches the required figure. The pilot light must be manually illuminated first on non-sequential designs before the remote handset can regulate the height of the flame. It is prevalent for fires with this sort of control when the flame is frequently used to maintain the pilot light on at all times.
Installation & Service
Only a licensed installer must fit gas fires. The Gas Safe Register in the United Kingdom is the official list of technicians authorized to operate on gas equipment. You must select a licensed safety installer and comply with the requirements of a warranty of the producers. All gas fires involve annual maintenance to guarantee continued efficient and safe performance. This is also a requirement for any devices provided with an expanded warranty.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/7481076